Two-thirds of the world's great Indian rhino population on the floodplain where the Brahmaputra changes its mind every monsoon.
The Brahmaputra floods this grassland every year and the grass returns taller than a jeep. Kaziranga holds something like two-thirds of the world's greater one-horned rhinos, which is why the anti-poaching presence here is unlike anywhere else in the country.
Rhino, wild buffalo, swamp deer and elephant are all routine. Tigers are here at high density and are almost never seen through that grass. Come in the cool months, once the floodwater has dropped.
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A tea-estate bungalow, an hour from the central range.
