India's first dark-sky reserve. The lake turns from turquoise to ink. The galaxy you forgot existed comes back.
Four and a half thousand metres up, some 134 kilometres long, and only about a third of it on the Indian side — the rest runs on into Tibet. The water shifts colour through the day in a way no photograph has ever quite carried.
The altitude is the thing to respect. People drive up from Leh in one go and then lie awake all night at a height they have given their body no chance to meet. Come slowly, and stay long enough for the sky to get properly dark.
Stay with us
Insulated lake-edge eco-tents with copper-bath hot water.
