No. 35 of 50 · Pilgrimage · Uttar Pradesh

Sit with sadhus at the Magh Mela, Prayagraj

Not the Maha Kumbh — the smaller annual gathering. Easier to attend, harder to forget. The akharas, the river, the saffron-soaked dawn.

Sadhus in marigold garlands gathered at the Magh Mela

Every January the sands at the Sangam fill for a month, and thousands of kalpvasis move onto the floodplain to live austerely for its whole duration. The Kumbh takes the attention; the Magh Mela happens every year.

The bathing days follow the lunar calendar and are enormous. Between them the camp is calm, and the akharas are approachable, particularly if you arrive without a camera held out in front of you.

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A tented camp on the sangam sandbar — the only way to stay close.

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