Asia's highest gondola lifts you to 13,000 ft of untracked snow. December to March, it is a different country.
The gondola climbs in two stages to just under 4,000 metres on Apharwat, which puts a great deal of off-piste terrain inside a single lift ride. Below it the Gulmarg bowl holds snow that an Alpine resort would price accordingly.
January to March is the window. There is little grooming and no crowd control once you leave the marked runs, so a local guide is not an indulgence — the avalanche risk is real and the terrain does not forgive a casual route choice.
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A cedar lodge with a hammam, walking distance from the gondola.
