No. 28 of 50 · Food · Karnataka

Cook with a Coorgi family on their pepper estate

Pandi curry, kadambuttu, akki roti over a wood-fire, all hands-on, eaten at a long table with the family. The recipes don't exist online.

A home cook serving a dish she has just finished cooking

Kodagu grows a large share of India's coffee and a great deal of its black pepper, usually on the same shaded slope. Kodava food is unlike anything around it — pork with kachampuli vinegar, steamed rice dumplings, wild greens through the monsoon.

Cooking with the family who farm the estate is the whole point; these recipes were never written down and are not on restaurant menus. The plantations are working ones, and the pepper harvest is a short and specific season.

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A planter's bungalow inside the estate where you cook.

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Eaten where it is cooked, by the family that cooks it