Chandni Chowk at midnight
Old Delhi opens differently after 10 p.m. — paranthe wali gali, the all-night nihari at Karim's, jalebis on flame at 2 a.m. The meal of your life.
Food and kitchens
Eaten where it is cooked, by the family that cooks it
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Cook with a Coorgi family on their pepper estate
Pandi curry, kadambuttu, akki roti over a wood-fire, all hands-on, eaten at a long table with the family. The recipes don't exist online.
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A 28-course Sadhya on banana leaf
The Onam feast — every dish handed to you in a single sitting, eaten right to left in strict order. A meal that takes a lifetime to forget.
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Forage wild mushrooms with Khasi farmers
Six varieties, in the rain, on hillsides above Mawphlang. Eaten that night in a one-pot stew with bamboo shoot and tungrymbai.
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Chai at every stop on the Pachmarhi road
Hoshangabad to Pachmarhi, eight chai stops, each a different leaf, milk, masala. The road itself is the experience.