Old Delhi opens differently after 10 p.m. — paranthe wali gali, the all-night nihari at Karim's, jalebis on flame at 2 a.m. The meal of your life.
Shahjahanabad's main axis, laid out in the seventeenth century with a canal running down the middle that caught the moon — hence the name. The canal is long gone; almost everything else has been added rather than replaced.
Late is the right hour. The wholesale traffic has cleared, the parathas and kebabs are going, and the steps of the Jama Masjid fill with people eating. Walk it, because nothing else here moves.
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A heritage haveli inside the walled city, walking distance in.
