Sit on the dargah floor as the sun drops and the qawwals begin. Eight centuries of devotional music, unbroken, no microphone.
Thursday evening at the dargah of Hazrat Nizamuddin Auliya, where qawwali has been sung more or less continuously since Amir Khusro was writing it in the fourteenth century.
The lanes in are narrow, crowded and full of food. Sit on the marble, keep your head covered, put something in the box, and don't put a camera in anyone's face — this is a working shrine, not a venue that happens to be old.
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A Hauz Khas guesthouse with a driver who knows the back-lane parking.
