Eighty-four medieval baoris, frescoed havelis, almost no other tourists. The Rajasthan that existed before Rajasthan was a brand.
Bundi has more than fifty step-wells, sunk when the town's water security depended on them, and Raniji ki Baori drops through carved storeys that most visitors have entirely to themselves.
This is also where the Bundi school of miniature painting developed under the Hada Chauhans, and the palace murals are still on the walls. The town sits an hour off the main tourist circuit and feels several decades off it.
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A six-room blue-house guesthouse below the Taragarh fort.
